After seeing the dunes and the incredible Deadvlei, we drove to Walvis Bay , a place where the dunes meet the ocean.
🦗 Namibian crickets eating each other
The drive from Solitaire to Walvis Bay was anything but boring, even though it took us the whole morning. First, a drive through savannah with yellowish grass, then small hills, gorges and dry riverbeds. And on the road... crickets . When driving through Namibia, you rarely get more surprised than colonies of large, dark crickets that cruise across the roads like an army. These are Namibian armored crickets ( Acanthoplus discoidalis ), also known as desert crickets or "armoured ground crickets" - you can easily recognize them by their thick legs, hard, beetle-like armor and long antennae.
Special features of these crickets:
– adults grow up to 6 cm ,
– they have strong armor that protects them from predators,
– they are not able to jump like normal crickets, so they walk ,
– and... they are cannibals .
Although they mostly feed on plants, they will readily eat other crickets , especially injured or dead ones. This is why they have sometimes gathered around run-over specimens on the road.
It's a survival strategy - there's no room for pickiness in such a harsh environment.
Fun fact : if you threaten them, they can secrete a yellowish liquid with a strong odor , which they use to defend themselves from predators – including birds and even small mammals.
The journey kept us busy until the afternoon. When we arrived in town, the first thing we did was to go to the store to stock up on supplies.
Walvis Bay – salt, birds and sand dunes
The city lies right on the Atlantic coast, next to a lagoon that is home to flamingos, pelicans and other waterfowl. It is famous for its salt pans , which produce around 750,000 tons of salt per year – the most in Africa.
But we weren't just interested in the lagoon. We came for a very special view.
Sandwich Harbour – where the sand kisses the ocean
Sandwich Harbour is a place where the Namibian desert with its dunes literally merges into the Atlantic Ocean . Access is only possible with a guided tour with an experienced guide and the right equipment.
Our guide was Michael from MC Tours . And in four hours he gave us an experience that was... incredible.
Access to Sandwich Harbour is via a narrow strip of sandy beach , which is completely covered by the ocean at high tide . This means:
– driving is only possible at low tide ,
– experienced guides carefully monitor the tide schedule , as riding at the wrong time can be dangerous.
Therefore , entry is only allowed with an organized tour. We experienced a ride right next to the waves. Urban was absolutely mesmerized by the waves.
The drive from the center of Walvis Bay to the first major dunes at Sandwich Harbour takes about 1 hour. The first part passes the lagoon and salt pans , followed by a drive along the beach and a climb into the dunes.
The ride over the dunes was wonderful. Adrenaline-filled, but enjoyable and above all safe thanks to the experienced driver. And the view at the top of the dunes takes your breath away.
They then prepared a picnic for us in the middle of the desert (read: in the middle of nowhere).
On the way back, Michael did another magic trick – he stopped the car and started searching... And indeed – after a few tries, he pulled a tiny, almost transparent gecko from under the sand.
🦎 Namibian sand gecko – a translucent desert dweller
It was the Namibian sand gecko ( Pachydactylus rangei ). This rare species is perfectly adapted to life in the desert:
– has translucent skin through which you can see the internal organs,
– large black eyes without eyelids, protected by a transparent membrane,
– wide, splat-like feet , which act like mini snowshoes – allow it to walk on loose sand without sinking,
– it is active at night , and during the day it hides deep below the surface, where it is cooler.
And now for the strangest feature : the gecko drinks its own tears . Its eyes have no eyelids, so it cleans them with its tongue, while also absorbing the moisture that accumulates on their surface – in an extremely dry environment, every drop of water is precious.
In addition, it can also obtain moisture from sand and food (mainly small insects).
Tour price: approx. €350 for 4 people.
The most expensive experience on the trip – but worth every euro.
That same afternoon we said goodbye to Walvis Bay and headed towards our next desert outpost (where it rained for the first time in five years this March!) – Spitzkoppe .