Via Apsyrtides: Lošinj and Ilovik

September 16, 2025

In April, my mother and I embarked on the 150-kilometer long hiking trail Via Apsyrtides, which connects the islands of Cres, Lošinj, and Ilovik. After completing the first part in spring (the entire island of Cres), we knew we would return someday. And we did. In September 2025, we continued in Osor where we had finished in April. Lošinj and Ilovik were still ahead of us.

We didn't stick to the official stages but adapted them based on accommodation (campsites) and physical abilities. We slept wherever we could: in nature, by the beaches, once in a campsite. We had a tent, sleeping bags, mats, and a damn heavy backpack – 16 kilograms.

How was the trail itself? Well, beautiful in some parts, but mostly challenging and annoying. Otherwise well-marked. This time there was less enjoyment and more struggle. Water on the way? Always precious and scarce. Lots of sun and heat, and consequently sweat and searching for shade. There were more towns and civilization and easier access to food and drink compared to Cres in April.

Read below to find out how we hiked.

Stage 1: Osor – Ćunski

The start, as it should be: waking up at 4 AM, the first ferry to Cres, and then driving to Osor, where we finished in April. We had to complete what we started, we don't like doing things by halves after all.

After a short walk along the edge of the town, we went straight across the bridge and right into the campsite to Osorščica – the highest mountain range on Lošinj. Osorščica is a hiker's paradise, but it quickly becomes clear why few people hike it from start to finish.

The first goal was the highest peak of Osorščica, Televrina (588 m). The Osorščica mountain range is known for one of the most beautiful views of Kvarner. The path led us past a mountain hut and later over all the peaks. When we started crossing the entire mountain range, conquering all the peaks, and the sign said 5 hours of walking, we thought: “It’s not that many kilometers, we’ll do it faster...”

Oh, how very wrong we were. The hours on the sign were accurate.

A path that isn't really a path. And we are used to rocky karst terrain. It's just a collection of markings and sharp rocks where you find where you can safely step. Rarely any shade, heat, water running low. I carried 4 liters, my mother a little less. The path to Ćunski was brutal. God forbid you fall on those sharp rocks.

When we finally reached Ćunski, after a long time we again felt what a normal hiking trail means, but it only appeared a kilometer before the village. In the village, we went to the cemetery, refreshed and washed up there, and then dinner at a restaurant: a fish platter and a radler. In the dark, we descended to the beach and slept under the open sky on Ćunski beach (about a kilometer away from the village).

A long day and a strenuous journey of 20 km and 950 m elevation gain.

Stage 2: Ćunski – Mali Lošinj

The first part of this coastal stage was again challenging. It took us 25 minutes to cover one kilometer. We knew there were 6 kilometers to Lošinj. It quickly got hot, so we went for a swim to cool down and gather strength to continue. We continued, but the path suddenly disappeared with a warning: minefield. Markings erased or spray-painted over. What's going on here?

Since we didn't want to take any risks, we decided on an alternative, oriented ourselves, found the main road, and walked along it to Mali Lošinj, first past Poljane camp and along the marina all the way to the town center. The story of the minefield remains a mystery, but the experiences of other hikers show that the path is not dangerous. In Mali Lošinj, we treated ourselves to a rest and ice cream, then continued along the sea to Čikat camp, where we spent the night. This part of the path was significantly easier and allowed for relaxed walking. A concrete path, occasional coves, finally a relaxed stride.

The entire stage was 14.65 kilometers long and had 128 meters of elevation gain.

The afternoon was reserved for relaxing on the beach and camping under the pine trees. Let me tell you another anecdote. When I was pitching the tent, I struggled to drive in the pegs. I tried with my foot, hit them with rocks... it didn't work. Suddenly, a gentleman appeared with a hammer in his hand and handed it to me. That's how we safely pitched our tent. Great camp culture.

Stage 3: Mali Lošinj – Mrtvaška Port

This stage was our longest, but also by far the most beautiful. Walking along the well-maintained concrete road past luxury hotels quickly turned into exploring wild coves. The path, running along the southwest coast of Lošinj, offered endless opportunities for refreshment. Past the coves of Porta Šešula, Cvanguski, and Sunfarni, we reached Krivica Cove, where a steep, 200-meter ascent to the St. Ivan viewpoint began. Despite the midday heat, the view was truly worth the effort – we could admire the panorama stretching from Veli Lošinj to the surrounding islands.

Next was the descent into charming Veli Lošinj, an old town with a calm harbor. There we restocked, had a good meal, and continued past picturesque beaches and coves such as Rovenska, Arat, Javorina (where we stopped again for a quick swim), Kriška, Jamna... From Jamna, a climb followed through the forest and along old walls. We wondered what they used to have in this part of the island, maybe olive groves? And how did they become overgrown so quickly? The climb along the old paths led us past glamping Trasorka, followed by a descent, and just before Mrtvaška Port, after 23 kilometers and over 500 meters of elevation gain, we found a place to stay by the sea.

We washed in the sea and fell asleep a little bit arguing.

Stage 4: Ilovik – Cape Radovan

The last day of our adventure began with an early start and a search for transport to the island of Ilovik. We missed the first boat (by a mere 15 minutes), then called a taxi, but it likes to send nine. So we waited for the clock to strike nine. Indeed, a taxi boat appeared and transported us to Ilovik Island in ten minutes. It is a small and quiet place with about 80 permanent residents, a shop, a few taverns, and even a primary school. We quickly found the signs for Cape Radovan, located on the far southern part of the island.

The path to the Cape is easy, only 3 kilometers in one direction. Past houses and some pastures and olive groves, we reached the cape itself, which slightly disappointed us. There is no beach, just a rocky end with a lot of trash and a sign marking the end of Via Apsyrtides. After a quick photo, we immediately returned. This part of the journey, although the final destination, left us cold.

At the end, the most expensive part of the journey awaited us – the return to Osor. From Ilovik, we returned to Mrtvaška Port by boat taxi, then by classic taxi to Mali Lošinj, and finally by bus to Osor. Why the most expensive part of the journey? Let me tell you the prices: Taxi boat (€30), taxi to Lošinj (€50), bus to Osor (€10).

Ilovik didn't impress us. But that's how it is: the journey is more important than the destination.