If I had to choose one place where I truly felt freedom – it would be Spitzkoppe .
Desert silence, orange boulders, a full moon and freedom without limits. And later, the moment when the reality of the locals' lives really hits you.
When the sun sets
We arrived at the campsite late in the afternoon , when the light was already starting to soften. Everything was orange and peaceful, but I admit – we didn’t find our way around the campsite very well . The pitches weren’t clearly marked, everything was scattered over a large area, and darkness was coming quickly.
We somehow found a spot, pitched the tent, and said, "That's it." That night was still quite windy, and if it didn't start out well, it only got better.
Window and skavanna with tadpoles
In the morning we moved closer to the famous natural window , which is the symbol of Spitzkoppe. And while observing that area, we found a plot and moved there. You reserve a plot here very simply – you set up a table or chairs and it's yours .
From there we set off to explore – we walked freely on the granite , climbed the boulders, and came to natural pools (they are located opposite the window - you can see a slightly paved path), in which water had collected after the March rain. Tadpoles were splashing around in them – life amidst the stone. The guide later told us that we were extremely lucky , because this year (in 2025) they finally got rain after five years.
We squeezed in a tour of the Small Bushman wall paintings in the morning (guided tour, no reservations required). Then we retreated from the midday sun and prepared lunch.
About the creation of these wonders
Spitzkoppe is an old rock mass in the middle of nowhere. Technically speaking: a granite intrusion that formed about 700 million years ago, deep beneath the earth's crust. Erosion has removed everything above it - and this isolated massif remains. The highest peak reaches 1784 m , which is why it is also called the Matterhorn of Namibia .
Stories written in rock: the San people and the Spitzkoppe paintings
The San people – often called Bushmen – have lived here long before us. In fact, they are the oldest indigenous people of southern Africa , with a history in the area stretching back more than 20,000 years .
The San people were hunter-gatherers , remarkably adapted to life in the harsh environment of the desert and savannah. They communicated with the world not through words on paper, but through pictures. Their wall paintings were a kind of mixture of art, writing and spirituality - they depicted animals, people, hunting scenes, rituals and symbols, the meaning of which is still not entirely clear today.
The Spitzkoppe area preserves some of the most beautiful and oldest paintings in Namibia. The pigments used were of natural origin – red ochre, charcoal, animal fat, ostrich yolk and egg white.
The paintings are beautiful and interesting, so I highly recommend seeing them.
View and reality check
In the afternoon, we climbed with a guide to the higher-lying paintings called the Chain Bushman Paintings , which are accessed by a cable car . The tour is only possible with a guide and is already included in the price of the camp. There are several other guided tours available in the area.
Our guide was extremely friendly, warm, and gave us some really important insights. Among other things, it rained for the first time in five years this year, and nature literally came to life after this event.
After the tour, he asked us if we could take him to his home. We didn’t know what to expect and it was actually a bit of a shock. He showed us his “house”, which was actually made of sheet metal. Considering he was a camp employee and a guide, we were shocked that he didn’t even have a built house. He told us that he had a garden, but that not many vegetables grew in the area. Not even fruit. He mentioned beetroot and carrots. Cattle had also almost disappeared from the area due to the drought.
There is a school in a nearby village, attended by approximately 300 children .
Camp
The campsite at Spitzkoppe is simple, varied, and scattered throughout the natural landscape. Each pitch is like its own mini world among the rocks, and there is plenty of privacy.
🔌 There is no electricity.
🚿 There is no water at the plots.
💧You have to find water at the reception – and really save it .
Every now and then you'll find a toilet on the stilts , and showers and sinks/washing facilities are by the reception - clean, tidy and just enough for desert camping.
I photographed the area like crazy – the light, the contrasts, the textures, the kids jumping on the rocks. Beautiful. I hope it comes through in the photos.
If you go there...
– Come before sunset to make it easier to find your way.
– Bring your own water and power bank if you need electricity.
– Book a guide for longer hikes upon arrival.
– Shoes with good grip are mandatory.
– And take your time. Also to talk to people.
Spitzkoppe is awesome!
