Between cheetahs and rhinos

Without a reservation and without contact (because we couldn't find an email or phone number anywhere), we drove from northern Namibia to Etosha, but before that we wanted a special adventure that is rarely possible anywhere. We went to Otjitotongwe Cheetah Guest Farm. And we were lucky.

Otjitotongwe Cheetah Guest Farm

When we pulled up, the campsite was empty. We were the only guests and had the pool in the middle of nowhere all to ourselves.

The camp is remote, without signal , with a basic bathroom, a beautiful view, and the feeling of being somewhere in the wilderness.

But we didn't come just for peace - we came for the cheetahs .

When we finished our late afternoon lunch and refreshments in the pool, the owner came to pick us up in his pickup truck - a typical white descendant of the colonizers, a rough and tough man who says with just his look that he's not for fools, with high leather boots, a hat and tobacco under his nose.
He said he was taking us to his home, where one of his last domesticated cheetahs lives. He used to have three cheetahs, as house cats or "family members" - as he put it, now there is only one left. They got them (three) as newborns, after their mother was shot, farmers killed them because they attacked and killed their livestock (which apparently still happens today). The cheetahs have lived on his farm (he has cows, sheep and goats) for 32 years, in the best of times there were over 40 of them. He domesticated those three rescued ones , but he is slowly saying goodbye to them. One female died this year and you could tell that it affected him quite a bit. The female we petted is 13 years old. Keeping cheetahs at home as pets is illegal in Namibia. But I would also like to add that there was a great love and respect on his part for these incredible wild animals.

He gave us clear instructions: he told the children to stick to him, not to scream under any circumstances, and to back away IMMEDIATELY if he said so.

We entered the fenced yard. A cheetah slowly appeared next to the puppies and workers. It lay in the shade, then slowly and elegantly approached.
I never thought I would see a cheetah so close. And how loudly it purrs! We touched its soft fur . Incredible!

The owner showed us the scars he got – "so no one would think this was really a domestic cat."
He said he feeds her about 2 kg of meat a day , mostly old livestock (donkeys, horses, meat that people throw away). In the wild she would eat 10 kg in one meal (only once a week). She gets along with dogs, but you know who's boss.

Next to him in the enclosure, the gentleman had young ostriches, 6 months old – strong and hungry cubs. We were surprised by how strong they were at pulling and tearing leaves off branches.
The owner also gave us homemade lemons , and the children got stones from which they make pendants . A very friendly and hospitable man. To us.

After the tour, he took us back to the camp where he has a large enclosure with wild cheetahs. One approached us, cautiously, low, blowing towards us (even though we were on the other side of the fenced plot). grabbed the meat and ran somewhere inside and ate in peace.
The wild cheetahs at Cheetah Farm have a huge enclosure – 1.5 km wide and 2.5 km long . The entire farm covers an area of 60 km² .

🐆 Something more about cheetahs

Cheetahs are not only the fastest land animals – they are also among the most endangered cats in the world. Their future is uncertain, due to loss of habitat, predators and genetic depletion.

Interesting facts you won't forget:
– A cheetah ( Acinonyx jubatus ) accelerates to 100 km/h in 3 seconds – faster than a sports car.
– Its body is perfect for speed: a long tail for balance, long legs, a curved spine like a spring.
– Weight : from 35 to 65 kg, height up to 90 cm.
– Lifespan : 10–12 years in the wild, longer in captivity.
– In the wild, a female has 2–4 cubs , which stay with her for up to about 18 months.
– Cheetahs don't roar , but they purr, bark, meow, and whine.

🆚 Cheetah or leopard? How to tell them apart?

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Ghaub – in search of rhinos (and silence)

We arrived in Ghaub in the afternoon after we finished visiting Etosha . We quickly set up our tents, had a snack, and then went on an 8 km hike through the reserve – past an old missionary cemetery , along fenced pastures , and through barren bush.
We saw impalas, springboks and warthogs , which disappeared into the bushes with their tails in the air.

But the real thing was the next morning.

With a guide and two other travelers, we went on foot to look for rhinos .
And they found them – not after hours of walking, but in a few minutes . They were very close.
Calm, mighty. For the first few minutes we just stood there, speechless, watching these huge animals.

They currently have 11 white rhinos on the property. Each is monitored by a ranger 24 hours a day . The last poachers tried to take their horn in 2021 (one was killed, one survived the shot, but still has a visible scar today) – since then they have had security guards at all times. That's why we found them right away. Lucky for the mule , we didn't have to walk 10 km because they were grazing right next to our camp that morning.

📏 The Ghaub estate covers 200 km² and was once a mission. Today, it is a place of silence, nature, and the protection of what is disappearing elsewhere.

📜 History of the Ghaub Estate

– In 1895, the Ghaub area was declared a natural historical site , as bones of human ancestors were found in the Ottawa Mountains – including a jaw, ulnar and finger bone of a prehistoric man from 13 million years ago.

– The Ghaub Mission was founded by the Rhine Missionary Society in January 1900 , on a land area of 9,000 hectares.
In 1901 , Wilhelm Detering from Germany took over the management, draining the swamps , arranging the fields , and bringing in the first fruit tree plantations .

– In 1904 , the property was damaged during the Herero rebellion, but after reconstruction, it also served as a school and church for the Damara people.
In 1915 , Ghaub became the scene of the last battle of World War I in the territory of German South-West Africa , just four days before the official capitulation.

– After the return of the missionaries from Germany in 1922, they continued to work until 1990 , after which Ghaub became a private farm , and later a reserve and tourist spot . In 2020, it was taken over by ONE Namibia , which today takes care of the connection between agriculture, tourism and nature conservation .

🦏 What do you need to know about white rhinos?

The white rhinoceros ( Ceratotherium simum ) is the second largest land animal – second only to the African elephant. Despite its size and weight of up to 2,300 kg, it is surprisingly calm, almost silent when it walks. When you observe it up close, in silence – you know you are in front of something magnificent.

📍 Facts about white rhinos:

– Length : up to 4m, height: around 1.8m
– Weight : 1,800–2,300 kg
– Diet : exclusively grass – has a wide snout, like a “lawn mower”
– Behavior : lives in small groups, often in open savannah
– Lifespan : 35–40 years
– Horn : composed of keratin , grows throughout life

Poaching

Poaching is the main reason why white and black rhinos are disappearing (rhinos have no natural enemies). The horns are sold illegally in Asian markets , where they are used in "traditional medicine", for which there is no scientific basis .

– 1 gram of rhino horn can fetch a price higher than gold or cocaine on the black market.
– In 2015 , more than 1,300 rhinos were killed in South Africa – that’s almost 4 a day.
– Today, there are estimated to be around 15,000 white rhinos left in the wild.

🆚 White or black rhino? How to tell them apart?

Both experiences of seeing such magnificent animals so close (we didn't touch the rhinos of course!), were incredible and unforgettable. At least the adjective I use to describe it is not really enough. There is something very special about getting so close to animals on foot and I would repeat both experiences.

Next: a walk, red walls and views of the savannah from the top of the Waterberg Plateau .